What's The Difference: Relaxer VS. Perm

Relaxer vs. Perm: What’s the Difference?

If your natural hair starts to feel weak or thin, it’s natural to consider doing something about it. For many, the choice often comes down to relaxing or perming their hair to maintain a healthy appearance. But before making a decision, it’s important to understand what each treatment involves — and the potential risks.

One common misconception is that relaxing or perming natural hair is a harmless fix. In reality, both are chemical processes that can cause serious damage and breakage. Once done, these treatments can’t be reversed — you’ll have to wait for your natural hair to grow back. During that regrowth phase, you may notice unwanted curls at the roots.

What is a Hair Relaxer?

A hair relaxer is a cream or lotion designed to permanently straighten curly or coily hair. It works by chemically breaking down the natural texture and structure of the hair, leaving it smooth and straight. Relaxers are popular for creating sleek, manageable hair — but they are potent chemical treatments and should be used with caution.

Types of Hair Relaxers

There are three main types of relaxers, categorized by the chemicals they contain:

1. No-Lye Relaxer

No-lye relaxers are gentler on the scalp but can dry out your hair and scalp over time. They typically contain calcium hydroxide, which may strip away natural oils and lead to brittleness and breakage. Since they leave calcium buildup on the hair, it’s important to use a decalcifying shampoo to prevent damage.

2. Lye Relaxer

Lye relaxers contain sodium hydroxide, a strong alkali that acts quickly to straighten the hair. It’s the most effective type but can be harsh on sensitive scalps. If you choose this option, you’ll need to be extra careful to avoid irritation or burns.

3. Thio Relaxer

Thio relaxers use ammonium thioglycolate (ATG) — the same chemical used in permanent waves. This formula has a higher pH and is less damaging than lye-based relaxers, making it suitable for those with fine, color-treated, or damaged hair.

What is a Hair Perm?

A perm, short for permanent wave, is another chemical treatment that alters the hair’s structure. Unlike relaxers that straighten hair, perms create waves, curls, or kinks. Even naturally curly hair can be permed to add definition or create more uniform waves. There’s also a reverse perm, which straightens the hair instead of curling it.

Types of Hair Perms

There are two primary types of perms, each suited to different hair textures and needs:

1. Alkaline Perm

This type works best for coarse, resistant hair — including tough gray strands. It produces strong, firm curls and is ideal for those with naturally straight or less elastic hair.

2. Acid Perm

An acid perm is a gentler option for fragile, color-treated, or damaged hair. It creates softer curls and is less likely to cause breakage.

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